Wednesday, March 18, 2015

1 Hour Basket Tutorial




Ok, here it is!  I promised I write a tutorial and I did!  I thought it would be a bit easier if I put the tutorial in PDF format on Craftsy so you can easily download and/or print rather than scroll through my blog post.   I wrote this up pretty quickly so there may be a mistake or two, forgive me!  Also, if you like this style basket and want to step it up, Anna has a beautiful Divided Basket Pattern you should check out! 




PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do the right thing and tag or link back to me, my blog, or Craftsy site if you post pictures/blog/sell the basket!  I'm @kelbysews on IG and Twitter or use #kelbysews #hourbasket



Saturday, March 7, 2015

Simple Stained Glass Tutorial


I recently ordered a 4" design roll of Tula Pink's latest line, Elizabeth, from Hawthorne Threads.  I ordered yardage too, but I knew I would want to make something right away so I splurged and got the roll.  I made this super quick and easy pattern I thought I'd share!

Fabric Requirements:

(25) 4"xWOF strips of prints
2 yards background fabric
3.75 yards for backing
1/2 yard for binding


Cutting instructions:

From each print
(3) 4" squares
(2) 4"x11" rectangles

From the background fabric:
10.5"xWOF strip then sub cut into (20) 2"x10.5" rectangles for inner sashing
(8) 2"xWOF strips for inner sashing
(8) 4" xWOF strips for outside border



Mix and match your prints to create these square-in-square blocks.  Each block requires (1) 4" square of print A for the center and (2) 4" squares and (2) 4"x11" rectangles of print B for the outside square.  Once these are assembled, cut each 11" square-in-square block into 4 new squares.  


Mix and match again to create all new 10.5" blocks


It helps to lay it all our to make sure you don't have too many of the same print clustered together.  


Add your sashing strips and voila!  Quilt finished at about 63" square.  



Wednesday, January 28, 2015

A Quick Hexie Video



I've had many friends tell me about the Sewline glue pen for a while, but I stubbornly kept hand basting my hexies.  I finally caved and gave it a try.  Ummmmm, I feel really stupid I didn't do this sooner!  While I use the Sewline pen, others have said Elmers and other cheaper options are out there.  Personally, I like the small pen shape of the Sewline and I know it's safe for my fabric, but feel free to experiment.  No one is paying me to promote a certain brand, I'm just sharing my experience. Here's a quick little video of how it works!

video

I'm currently making two hexie projects, but the one I'm most excited about are these large (2" per side) hexies that take a charm size square to make.  I'm using almost every print Anna Maria Horner has ever produced!  I've almost finished with the hexie part--last count was 260!--but now I have to start on the tedious triangle making.  Boo for boring!

Monday, August 4, 2014

Keeping Secrets


So I've been keeping a bit of a secret!  Head on over to Hearts & Bees to find out more about my new pattern adventure!  Here's a sneak peek!



Tuesday, July 22, 2014

Happy 35th Anniversary OLFA!


OLFA is turning 35!!!  When OLFA asked if I'd like to make a block to help celebrate their 35th anniversary I agreed immediately!  OLFA is my absolute favorite ruler/mat/rotary cutter brand.  Hands down.  No question!  

OLFA sweetly sent me this awesome rotating cutting mat, ruler, and cutter to help create my block.

I was super grateful for the rotating mat since I decided to make a block with half-square triangles that finish at 1.5"  This mat was perfect for trimming all my HSTs down to the perfect size! Tiny things are scary, but the right tools can make a project so much easier!

Ta-Da!  My block is 6.5" unfinished.  
Blue fabric:  Innocent Crush by Anna Maria Horner 
Yellow fabric: Charley Harper by Birch
Numbers: cut from a Japanese print and appliqu├ęd on




Wednesday, May 14, 2014

30 Minute Pouch Tutorial


I recently made a bunch of these pouches for an upcoming event and I thought I'd share how!  These are super quick and easy and are perfect for teachers gifts, last minute gifts, or as a cute way to hold gift cards.  They will really only take 30 minutes!  Promise!  I timed myself! 

What you need:
5.5"x12.5" exterior fabric 
5.5"x12.5" interior fabric
5.5"x12.5" batting or fusible fleece (I use batting because I have tons of batting scraps)
1 nylon zipper, any length so long as the tape is longer than 5.5"

Attach the batting or fusible fleece to the exterior fabric.  I use my spray basting glue, 505.  Layer the 5.5" side of the interior fabric right side up, the zipper right side up (raised teeth side), and the 5.5" side of the exterior/batting right side down.  

Pin.

Sewing on a Babylock Symphony
Using your zipper foot, sew all layers together.

Open and press all layers away from the zipper teeth and top stitch.

Repeat for the other side.  Interior fabric is right side up, zipper right side up and exterior/batting right side down.

Here's another view of what it should look like when you are attaching the second side.

Pin and sew.  Then top stitch the newly sewn side.

Fold the pouch so the right sides of the exterior are touching.  You may need to smooth and shift the layers a bit since the interior fabric tends to get stuck at weird angles on the batting.  

Close the zipper so that the zipper pull is in the middle of the pouch--NOT CLOSE TO EITHER END.

Fold the pouch so that one end has about 1.5" showing above the zipper and pin. This isn't an exact science.  I just eye balled it.  

Sew down the pinned edge using a 1/3" seam allowance.  Repeat for the other open side.

The reason I use 1/3" seam allowance is because I then trim the jagged edges and excess zipper tape down to 1/4".  Since the seams are exposed in this pouch, I like to make the ends as tidy as possible.  This is also the method I used in my boxy bag tutorial.  

This is the pouch with the trimmed edges.

I then use a zig zag stitch to encase the raw edges and prevent fraying.

See?

Turn the pouch right side out through the opening left in the zipper and press out the corners.  As you can see, the pouch is large enough to carry most cell phones.

Ta-da!  quick and simple pouch!


Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Easiest Chevron Quilt EVER {a Tutorial}



I love love love chevron quilts, but I really really really hate trimming half-square triangles and I never mastered the whole rectangle method.  When I figured out I could make a chevron with squares and not have to constantly worry about block orientation, I was stoked!!!  I'm not reinventing the wheel here folks.  I'm sure some smarty pants out there figured this method out ages ago and has a tutorial on it, but  I have never seen it so I'm guessing a few of you haven't either!  I'm also cutting out a lot of work and listing the fabric requirements and dimensions to make 4 different sizes so you don't have to do any math, yay!   That being said, I've only actually made two of the sizes below.  I sketched and did some rough cutting diagrams to make sure I had the right fabric requirements for the others.  If you find a mistake in the larger sizes, please let me know!  You can alter my math to fit whatever size squares you want to use, these are just what I chose.  There is no right or wrong!  Make it your own!  I'd love to see what you make so if you post on IG, Twitter, etc., tag me @kelbysews

For a 20" pillow/mini quilt you will need 5 Fat Quarters
from EACH fat quarter cut:
(5) 4.5" squares
(10) 2.5" squares

For a baby quilt 32"x40" you will need 1/2 yds of 5 fabrics
from EACH 1/2 yd cut:
(4) 8.5" squares
(8) 4.5" squares

For a lap quilt 60"X72" you will need 20" or 2/3 yd of 12 fabrics
from EACH 2/3 yd cut:
(10) 6.5" squares
(20) 3.5" squares

For a bed quilt 80"x90" you will need 1.25 yards of 9 fabrics
from EACH 1.25 yd cut:
(8) 10.5" squares
(16) 5.5" squares

For a bed quilt 84"x96" you will need 3/4 yd of 16 fabrics
from EACH 3/4 yd cut:
(14) 6.5" squares
(28) 3.5" squares

Rule of thumb:  The more fabrics you have, the more lines of zig-zags you have.  The larger the squares, the chunkier the chevron.  

I've cut and lined up my big and little squares to make the 20" chevron mini.  Be sure you're happy with the order you place the big squares.  You want to make sure there is some contrast between any two fabrics that are next to each other so you can see the chevron shape.  


Next, shift all the little squares UP one place so they can make friends with their new big square.  This means that the little squares that match your top fabric will move DOWN to the bottom fabric--in this picture, the smaller squares of yellow flowers on white move down to pair with the larger squares of white flowers on yellow.  


See?  All the little squares have new big square partners.  Keeping the original order of big squares is important in this quilt.  You can NOT make changes once the little squares start getting sewn so make sure you are happy with your order!


Using a ruler and your favorite marking tool, draw a diagonal line through ALL of the smaller squares on the back/wrong side.


Place the smaller square on the BOTTOM corner of the larger square you paired it with in the previous step--right sides together.  Here it is important to point out, if you have a directional print on your LARGER square like the white flowers on yellow, make sure you are placing the smaller square at the BOTTOM of the print.  As for the smaller squares, I decided I didn't care about direction for those.  It gets too stressful worrying about it and I like quilts that are quick and easy.  It's easy to notice if the big square is oriented correctly, not so much for the smaller ones.  Additionally, you could avoid this whole paragraph if you used non-directional prints.  Just saying.  If you're ever in a hurry and want to make this quilt, non-directional is the way to go!


Sew along the line drawn, or, in my case, I sew VERY SLIGHTLY below the line (toward the part that will be cut off.  I do this because sometimes if you sew directly on the line, when you fold the little square down, it's a bit short of making your larger square whole again.  This is due to the fold line created when you fold the smaller square down.  If you sew a hairline below where the line is, your squares come out perfect!


Using a rotary cutter or scissors, trim off the bottom corner leaving 1/4" seam allowance below the stitch line.  Don't throw these little triangle paris away!  They are already perfectly matched and ready to make into half-square triangles on a another day!  You can make mug rugs, potholders, table runners, or even whole quilts from these trimmings depending on how large of a project you're making.  


Press the seam open.  It's actually important for bulk reasons, so trust me, OPEN.  I know some of you are old school, but take a walk on the wild side and try my way here!


Repeat the sew and trim process for the second square.  


OPEN OPEN OPEN! 


Your finished block.  It should still be the size of your larger block, but with cute little contrasting triangles on the bottom.




Once you finish all the blocks for the row, sew them together.  Repeat for the remaining rows.  I alternate which side I press the seams per row because pressing open at this stage isn't important and it's faster to nest the seams than match seams that are pressed open.  Once you make all your rows, simply join them together to form your chevron! Is that easy or what????????  If you have any assembly questions please feel free to ask! 

My finished 20" block





This was my original project with this method.  This is a 32"x40" baby quilt made with Alison Glass and Tula Pink fabrics.  It's super bright and fun!


I went with high contrast for the back and used my favorite IKEA numbers print.  Why they discontinued this print is a mystery! 



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